By Teri Bayus

The “Ah-ha!” moment of an idea, the touch of a loved one, the smell of a food being prepared are the fabric of a life well lived and the memories that can be preserved in sustenance.
For those of us for whom eating is an art form, we idolize chefs who sanctify those reminiscences. Chef Nicola Allegretta is one of those rare artists, and his new offering, “Mistura” is his best canvas to date.
Chef Nicola’s inspiration to open a Peruvian restaurant on the Central Coast came from his wife, who is from Peru, and his insatiable curiosity in the fascinating essence, traditions and influences that created Peruvian cuisine. Nicola has always been a passionate traveler, wanting to learn about other cultures and places that would enrich his knowledge as a reputable chef.
In Mistura (meaning “to mix”), Nicola wanted to explore ingredients that embrace new flavors, be challenged by new techniques that bring depth to his creations, and honor Peru’s history and diversity.
Located on Paso’s River Oaks Golf Course, this stunning dining area with glass water fountains and expansive views helps to enhance the feeing that this is going to be a special meal. We started with the fresh, fried potato chops served with a black pepper dipping sauce — a pepper found only in Peru. I savored that sauce and tried it on everything.
Gary had the Mazamorra Morada, which was a dessert he had never tried (imagine that?). It was a purple maize pudding cooked with dried plums, organic apricots, quince, pineapples, and cinnamon. He loved the comfort food element and the blending of fruit.
I started with the habla causita, a trio of causas that is a distinctly Peruvian dish. Seasoned, whipped, cold potatoes are stacked with organic microgreens and then crowned with wild shrimp, king crab and ahi tuna tartare. This dish featured three of the most flavorful potatoes, the famed papa amarilla or yellow potato, huamantanga, considered to be among most delicious; and, the huayro, grown in the cold climes of the Andes and perfect for soaking up sauces.
This dish also features three sauces that are liberally drizzled on the potatoes, including rocoto sauce, botija olives cream sauce, and huacatay sauce. Simply exquisite.  This food is a work of art to both the eye and the palette.
Next we tired the delicate and delicious, camarones al coco — sautéed Peruvian shrimp with heirloom cherry tomatoes, baby corn, and grilled vegetables cooked in coconut and curry sauce topped with sarza criolla (lemon, cilantro and onions).
Thinking there is no way this could get better, I tried the Anticuchos de Carretilla. I had not had this dish in years, but remember it being on of my favorite Peruvian delicacies. Grilled natural beef heart is marinated with aji panca (a fruity and slightly smoky Peruvian chile pepper), beer and Peruvian spices served with side of choclo cusqueño and yellow potatoes. Served on a skewer, this traditional street cart food is one that once you try it will make an indelible mark on your heart. This was my happy place.
I returned with my friend and producer for lunch and was quivering with anticipation of my next run at this fantastic menu. We started with Alpaca Carpaccio and I nearly fainted with joy. Thinly sliced delicacy Andes Alpaca, that is served with an aji amarillo, sliced heirloom cherry tomatoes, sliced avocado, and micro arugula with a swirl of aji verde on the plate.
It was served with a citrus and pepper dip that enhanced all the outstanding flavors. My picky eater and producer tried it and liked the unique flavors.
I went on to try the Maki Guncan, which is a style of Peruvian cooking called Nikkei Gastronomy, which are Peruvian ingredients made with Japanese techniques. This was sushi rice, nori, made three ways with sustainable seabass  with a ponzu lime, then a tuna avocado rocoto crème and then a scallops masago crème.
This dish was beautiful as it was delectable. “Miss Picky Eater” had the safe but outstanding (I know because I stole one) empanadas aji de gallina. An empanada is a baked pastry filled with goodies. This one was stuffed with free range chicken, slowly cooked in an aji amarillo and milk crème, hard boiled egg and botija olive sauce.
Mistura is a true homage to the diversity of Peruvian food by proposing flavors that are familiar yet adventurous and unexpected.
We finished with chef Nicola joining us and sharing the Pisco sour, which is fruit juice on steroids and wonderful. Nicola told us how Mistura captures the multicultural spirit of Peru, blending its native pre-Columbian and Incas gastronomic heritage, with the Spanish, Italian, Chinese and Japanese influences that embody the country’s vibrant cuisine.
He explained his journeys and we shared laughs. We agreed that everyone has a voyage on which they must discover their authentic artist. It’s never easy and seldom without sacrifice but it’s a path worth taking.
I am glad that those like Nicola, who live life “out loud” in Technicolor flair of their authentic self are willing to share it with us via food.
Mistura is located at 700 Clubhouse Dr., in Paso Robles, on the River Oaks Golf Course. You can call for reservations and catering at (805) 238-3333. Open for lunch Tuesdays-Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinners Tuesdays-Thursdays 4-9 p.m.; and Fridays-Saturdays from 4-10. Sunday brunch (a deal at $35) is from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed on Mondays.